Introduction
Pressing is a key finishing step in garment production. It smoothes the surface, shrinks fullness, and shapes fabric at darts, curved seams, and the cap of sleeves for a cleaner, more professional result. The right method depends on the fiber content, fabric texture, fabric finish, garment type, garment construction, and the pressing technique being used. Knowing the difference between pressing, ironing, steaming, and underpressing helps improve quality, protect fabric, and support efficient sewing in both home and industrial workrooms.
Pressing Terms and Definitions
- Pressing: The process of alternatively pressing down and lifting up a heated iron on fabrics or newly stitched seams, darts, and other parts of the garment to set them in place.
- Ironing: The process of sliding a heated iron back and forth over a wrinkled fabric or garment by means of pressing with or without steam to remove wrinkles.
- Setting: The process of flattening or creasing a section of fabric or garment by means of pressing with or without steam so it keeps the desired shape.
- Steaming: The process by which steam is passed through fabric, usually downward by means of a steam iron, sleeve buck, form finisher, or dampened press cloth. An alternative method is to permit the steam to rise up through the fabric from below for a softer effect.
- Shrinking: The steaming process whereby an area of a garment or fabric is caused to draw in or contract in size before sewing or finishing.
- Underpressing: The process of pressing small units of work such as finished collars, cuffs, pockets, yokes, seams, darts, and tucks, as construction of the garment proceeds to keep the work neat and accurate.
- Finger Pressing: The process of using one’s fingers in place of an iron to open a seam or to crease a fold during early construction.
- Sponging: The process of dampening the surface of a fabric or garment by means of a wet sponge before pressing or shaping.
Pressing vs. Ironing: What’s the Difference?
Although the two words are often used together, pressing and ironing are not exactly the same. Pressing uses a down-and-up motion to shape seams, darts, and garment parts without stretching the fabric. Ironing uses a sliding motion to remove wrinkles from a flat surface. In garment production, pressing is usually the more precise method because it helps maintain the intended shape.
Garment Pressing Equipment
Appropriate pressing equipment is essential to properly finish a garment and to avoid damage to the fabric. Many different types of equipment for pressing exist, some for general use and others for special applications such as shaping, steaming, or finishing delicate areas.
Gravity Feed Iron
A weighted metal plate, approximately 8 inches (20 cm) long by 5 inches (13 cm) wide, that tapers to a point at one end, furnished with a handle and steam release knob control. The iron produces steam from water that is supplied through a hose from a suspended water tank. The heated steam generated by the iron can be adjusted. Gravity feed irons are used to smooth or crease fabrics and to provide a steady source of steam for sustained operation in busy production settings.
Iron Rest
A flat, rectangular-shaped, heat-resistant, flexible rubber- or silicone-coated metal plate where an iron rests when not in use. Industrial irons are designed to lay with the iron surface plate face down. An iron rest is used to prevent the ironing surface from scorching and to improve workplace safety.
Iron Shoe
A metal fitting with a Teflon sheet laminated to the bottom surface that is perforated and shaped to strap on the sole of a steam iron. An iron shoe is used in place of a pressing cloth to:
- Prevent scorching that produces shine on the surface of fabrics
- Evenly distribute steam from the iron over the entire ironing surface
- Press the face of garments made of synthetic fabrics or blends
Industrial Vacuum Ironing Board
A flat board, approximately 54 inches (1.4 meters) long by 15 inches (38 cm) wide, that tapers to 6 inches (15 cm) at one end and is supported at table height. The board is perforated, padded, and covered with fabric and is permanently fixed to a stand. When a garment is steam pressed, excess moisture is suctioned from the garment through the surface of the board. Some vacuum ironing boards are equipped to blow air up through the board to create a cushion of air in which to press. Up-air vacuum boards are useful when pressing garment areas that mark easily, such as pockets and fly front closures, and are also used for preventing napped fabric surfaces from being crushed during finishing.
Steam Iron and Boiler
A weighted metal plate, approximately 8 inches (20 cm) long by 5 inches (13 cm) wide, that tapers to a point at one end, furnished with a handle and steam release knob control. The iron produces steam from water that is supplied through a hose from a separate chamber that heats water into steam. The heated steam generated from the boiler can be adjusted. Steam irons and boilers are used to smooth or crease fabrics and to provide a steady source of steam for sustained operation in garment production.
Steam Press
A two-piece flat or curved padded form that applies heat, moisture, and pressure when the upper and lower opposing beds are activated by a foot pedal or handle. Padded surfaces are covered with silicone-treated fabric, heavy canvas, or drill cloth. Externally generated steam may pass through the top, bottom, or both surfaces. A steam press is used to:
- Facilitate the pressing of a particular garment part such as a collar, shoulder, or body of a coat
- Shape and smooth the final garment
- Smooth and shape garment parts, making it possible for a machine operator to perform a variety of subsequent operations of garment assembly
- Shrink fabrics before they are sewn
- Press creases and pleats in garments
- Press the face and underside of garments at the same time
Fig: Steam press
Form Finisher
A collapsible fabric structure simulating a garment shape that inflates and applies heat and steam when activated. The shape of the pressing form is planned to conform to a garment category such as shirts, evening gowns, or knit garments. The forms are made of natural or synthetic fabric and are planned with zippers at strategic points for increased or decreased diameters and changing shapes. A form finisher is used to press an entire garment at one time and is chosen because it will not distort the shape of the garment or mar the fabric surface.
Puff Iron
An ovoid metal ironing head, with or without a covered surface, that is fixed to a stand. Padded surfaces are covered with silicone-treated fabric, heavy canvas, or drill cloth. A puff iron is used to:
- Press or shape contoured seams
- Press puffed sleeves, ruffles, or pocket details
- Block and shape millinery
Sleeve Former
A flexible hardwood and metal form for shaping sleeves of jackets and coats during pressing on a steam press or form finisher. Sleeve formers are available in sizes from 24 inches (60.9 cm) long with up to 13-inch (33 cm) expansion, 24 inches (60.9 cm) long with up to 11-inch (27.9 cm) expansion, and 12 inches (38.4 cm) long with up to 7½-inch (19 cm) expansion. Sleeve formers are sold in pairs for consistent sleeve shaping.
Sleeve Buck
A rounded metal padded and covered board measuring approximately 21 inches (53 cm) long, tapering from a width of 5 inches to 2½ inches (12.7 to 6.4 cm), that is attached to an ironing board or press. A sleeve buck is used to press sleeves, short seams, and hard-to-reach areas where a flat board is less effective.
How to Choose the Right Pressing Tool
The pressing tool selected depends on the type of fabric, the type of fabric finish, the type of garment, the construction of the garment, and the pressing technique needed for the task. Fiber content determines the temperature of the pressing tool, while fiber texture determines how the fabric should be handled. Delicate fabrics usually need more controlled heat, steam, or a press cloth, while structured garments often benefit from tools that help shape seams, sleeves, collars, and curved sections more accurately.
Conclusion
Pressing is more than a final touch; it is an important part of garment construction and finishing. When the correct pressing method and equipment are used, seams lie flatter, fabric keeps its shape, and the finished garment looks more polished and professional. From a simple iron rest to a form finisher or steam press, each tool serves a specific purpose. Choosing carefully, and pressing at the right stage, helps protect the fabric and improve the overall quality of the garment.
